Ilkal sarees, originating from the
town of the same name in Bagalkot District in Karnataka, is a special type of
saree that has a cotton body and silk border and pallu.
The traditional ilkal
sarees are a combination of cotton warp in the body and the beautiful silk
borders with silk pallus. The silk used in the borders and the pallus are
usually art silk, however, in many cases, pure silk is also used to weave them.
The weaving of the traditional ilkal sarees dates back to the 8th century AD and the growth of this art
is majorly attributed to the local artisans of Bellary. It is believed that the
strong availability of the raw materials locally contributed towards the growth
of this type of saree and the art behind weaving them.
The procedure followed for yarn
dying for a traditional ilkal saree is interesting. The cotton warp and the
weft are dyed in a reddish black hue. As mentioned above, the procedure is
carried indoors in a cool dark area. The yarn is initially dyed in an indigo
hue for which sajimitti, collected from the river banks and chuna or limestone
are added in the water.
Similar to the many other types of
sarees, the process of weaving an Ilkal saree is unique and different. In order
to weave Ilkal sarees, the production house will require about 2000 weavers,
craftsmen and dyers. The technique of weaving an Ilkal saree is known as Tope
Teni. The weavers join the body of the saree with the pallu warp using a loop
technique. Another technique, Kondi is used for weft through insertion of 3
shuttles. The pallu of the saree are weaved to make one portion of red and two
portions of white.
Traditional Ilkal Sarees of Karnataka |
The sarees are usually six to nine
yards long, that also contributes towards making the sarees beautiful. The
Ilkal sarees have a red body with a white border which
makes the combination appear unique. The process begins with dying the yarns in
different colours, following by weaving the saree and then embroidering the
body parts, borders and the pallu to give it a unique look. The production is
mainly an indoor activity and are actively managed by female members in most
cases. The weaving of one Ilkal sarees in one handloom would require a minimum
of seven days to churn out a finished product. Many of the production houses
also use power looms these days, to meet the increasing demand to buy the
traditional ilkal sarees, online and from the stores as well.
Traditional ilkal sarees are known
for the variety of embroidery, known as Kasuti, on its body. The Kasuti designs
are basically patterns using elephants, palanquins, lotus, etc. that are
beautifully stitched on an ilkal saree. The pallu of the saree usually have
patterns of temples and towers, and are made in a traditional red and white
combination. Apart from the temple designs, many of the traditional ilkal
sarees have kotikammli, rampa, hanige and toputenne in the pallu.
The body of
the saree may be squares, stripes and rectangles as the base design with the
borders having gaadi, paraspet and gomi designs.
Indian women follow a
tradition of buying sarees that are historically significant and adds value to
the traditional wear collection. Keeping this fact into consideration, many
online retailers are now selling traditional ilkal sarees by buying them
directly from the weavers and artisans or the production houses. Marketing and
branding the traditional ilkal sarees have contributed towards making this
local type of saree popular amongst the masses, thus resulting in an excellent
growth in the sale.
No comments:
Post a Comment